The pursuit of healing, both physically and emotionally, has been a major global focus this past year. For this project, I explored an form of healing alternative to modern medicine; that of the natural world. Plants have been used throughout time for their medicinal properties. Additionally, they are connected to healing within spirituality. To learn about this connection, I researched paganism, a religion that worships nature. The relationship between humanity and the Earth, and healing each through the other, is deeply ingrained in this faith. I am intrigued by the substantial overlap between plants with medicinal properties and those with spiritual meaning. I wanted to link these qualities together in a garment, using pagan symbolism and the plants themselves in aesthetic and function.
Garment Illustrations, 2021, color pencil, alcohol-ink marker, pen and Photoshop, 10.5 x 25 in
Botanical Research, 2021, pen and Photoshop, 18.75 x 25 in
A significant part of this process was the botanical research. I started by studying plants native to the Chicago area, eventually branching out into more common plants relevant to paganism. I looked at their medicinal, spiritual and fiber properties, and discovered that many had overlapping features. For this garment in particular, I used chamomile, yarrow, rosemary, comfrey and cinnamon as dye sources and/or aesthetic forms. Above are the notes and dye samples I've compiled for these plants.
Before the Ritual, 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, cinnamon-dyed canvas, and dried flowers, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
Shadows Casted, 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, cinnamon-dyed canvas, and dried flowers, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
Roots and Flowers, 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, cinnamon-dyed canvas, and dried flowers, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
The details of the top were especially important to make, as the processes involved were almost meditative. I handsewed the bark appliques onto the “roots” with a basic running stitch, and sewed the dried flowers to the base of the sleeves using whip stitch. As this was quite time-consuming, I was able to think about my intentions behind the repetitive action. In this way, sewing on the details became another ritual.
On the Moss Carpet, 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, cinnamon-dyed canvas, and dried flowers, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
Ritual Dyeing, 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, dried flowers, and kiddie pool, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
For the ritual, I submerged myself and the garment in water. The herbs within the top and skirt slowly dyed the fabric from the inside out. In this image, one can see the water turning golden brown from the comfrey and chamomile. This process was not only used for dyeing, but as an opportunity for personal healing. I used the hour in the pool to relax, reflect on my surroundings, and connect with nature.
After the Ritual (front), 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, cinnamon-dyed canvas, and dried flowers, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
After the Ritual (back), 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, cinnamon-dyed canvas, and dried flowers, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
Chamomile Yellow, 2021, cotton voile and crinoline stuffed with comfrey, chamomile and rosemary, cinnamon-dyed canvas, and dried flowers, photograph by Zoe Gajewski
The potency of the chamomile dyed the skirt bright yellow, thus allowing the luminosity of the plants shine through.
House, Fashion and The Pursuit of Healing was a heavily process-based work, involving plenty of research and ritual. The project began with a deep exploration of plant life. I studied 128 plants in total, eventually narrowing down to five species in particular; chamomile, yarrow, rosemary, comfrey and cinnamon. All of these plants have powerful properties when it comes to healing, dyeing, and pagan belief. Once I decide on which plants to work with, I moved on to creating fabric manipulations. I dove into natural dyes, used layering to mimic natural surfaces like roots, and sewed plant-matter into and onto fabric. The physical incorporation of herbs into the garment was especially significant, as it tied the piece back to the earth. The final part of the project of was the ritual itself. In paganism, sachets of plants are often submerged in water, such as teas and baths, to create an infusion then used for spiritual purposes. I performed a ritual of my own by filling a kiddie pool with hot water and immersing myself in it while wearing the garment. I laid in the pool for an hour, letting the herbs slowly dye their encasing fabric, and using the time to rest. This moment of relaxation was a form of physical and emotional healing. I was able to reconnect with nature, and put my mind and body at ease. My personal journey with this project was quite therapeutic. I believe the pursuit of healing is something everyone deserves, and encourage others to engage with it whenever they can.